Based on your description of the symptoms it sounds like you may still have a bad brake light fuse or relay. Since the Activator brake controller # 5504 does generate brake output power and activate your truck and trailer lights with the manual override engaged this tends to suggest that there is not any internal fault in the controller.
I recommend replacing the relay and re-checking all fuses for the truck light circuits. view full answer...
Somewhere in the system you have a hot side and a neutral line reversed. My suggestion is to take it back to the person you paid to install. But if you want to troubleshoot the installation of your Go Power Industrial Pure Sine Wave Inverter, # 34275013 yourself; start at the beginning of the circuit on your installation checking polarity at each connection point to discover where the inverted wiring issue is.
You do not state how you identified that there is a reverse polarity issue... view full answer...
Since it sounds like you performed the initial brake adjustment correctly and have given them a bit of time to self-adjust by simply pulling the trailer, the issue you are having may be coming from a weak ground. I recommend checking both brake assemblies on the rear axle to make sure the ground wires are securely connected to a clean, bare metal surface on the trailer frame. Make sure there aren't any exposed areas on the wiring around the assemblies that need to be replaced.
Also just... view full answer...
We have an article to assist with checking your brake magnets like you are stating. The resistance will go down because the brake magnets are connected in parallel. Since the voltage doesn't change, the amperage draw needs to increase to power the magnets. This is Ohms law in action based on my research.
You obviously already have a multimeter like # PT89ZR so if you determine based on the article that you need to replace magnets, I recommend # BP01-180 for 12 inch Dexter assemblies... view full answer...
Did you try this test with the engine of the 2003 Ford F250 running? The additional voltage a vehicle has when running due to the alternator can help lights illuminate brighter.
The other issue is that maybe your trailer is having a ground problem. Make sure that the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds should be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces. The light grounds should also be attached... view full answer...
There are a number of possible issues for why the 7-way on your 2011 Ford F-350 may not be working, and I'll go over some things you can check.
You started off well by checking the fuses, but since those are good you will need to determine the specific problem by using a circuit tester if you do not have one - like the very handy Cordless Circuit Tester # PTW2979 - and test the connector on your vehicle after disconnecting it from your trailer. Use the tester to check the wiring going... view full answer...
The P.L. code on your Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 means there is a power interruption while the brake pedal is being depressed. This actually happens fairly often and all you need to do is check your ground connections and power supply wire.
You will want to make sure the ground is connected to bare, unpainted metal, but a quick and easy way to test is to connect the ground directly to the negative terminal on the battery. If this fixes the issue, it's definitely the ground connection... view full answer...
I reached out to my contact at B&W and they said that the B&W Companion Slider Gooseneck-to-5th-Wheel Trailer Hitch Adapter - Dual Jaw - 20,000 lbs # BWRVK3400 sometimes within the first use or two this happens if you haven't used grease. You have already done a great job with loosening the draw down bolt and removing the pin. Next, make sure you are pulling it straight up. You may need a couple people to help this time since it is already stuck. You can use a pry bar on each area right... view full answer...
The bolts that attach the adapter to the king pin are through bolts, meaning if one broke the nut and other half of the bolt should be lying in the pin box. If you are able to make your way to a hardware store you can get a 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt, 1/2 inch lock washer and a 1/2 inch grade 8 nut and replace that bolt.
If one of the set screws broke, then you will need to remove the broken screw with easy-outs from your local hardware or automotive store. I spoke with my contact for Rapid... view full answer...
Since the trailer lights work perfectly when connected to a different truck, the issue certainly appears to be somewhere on your 2000 Ford F-250. You did mention that you checked the fuses in your truck, but I recommend verifying that the 7.5A mini fuse located in the number 3 position (inside the power distribution box in the engine compartment) is present and in good condition. This is the particular fuse on your F-250 that is for the trailer right stop/turn lamp.
If that fuse is okay,... view full answer...
The Draw-Tite Activator brake controllers are time delay controllers meaning that they send back a pre-determined amount of power to the trailer brakes no matter how hard you are braking in your 1999 Ford F-250. If the controller is set to high output then it could lock the brakes even if you only slightly touch the brake pedal. The other adjustment controls how quickly the controller ramps up to the power level it is set at.
If could be that the contacts on the inside are dirty can causing... view full answer...
A cutaway van chassis is unlikely to have the wiring harness underneath for the # HM40975 you referenced to plug into. You'll need the # PK11998 pigtail, which you'd hardwire directly to the vehicle. The pigtail wire color codes are as follows:
Red - Left Turn and Stop
White - Ground
Blue - Electric Brakes
Green - Right Turn and Stop
Black - Battery
Brown - Running Lamps
Yellow - Backup Lamps
A circuit tester like part # PTW2993 would help you determine which circuit is which on the... view full answer...
There is actually a solution to this very problem that does not require the purchase of a new brake controller. If you have the Titan BrakeRite EHB, # T4813100 or # T4822500, there is an adapter made specifically to allow the in cab brake controller on your 2007 Ford F-350 to work with the BrakeRite system. You will need Adapter Module # DX35FR.
If you have the BrakeRite II SD system, # T4835700 or the or # T181310 you would use Titan BrakeRite SD Adapter, # T4845900, to allow the system... view full answer...
When using a 5th wheel to gooseneck adapter such as # CAB-C5G the connection point between the trailer and the gooseneck ball is extended. That increased distance allows for more movement which is likely what you are experiencing.
The trailer needs to be able to move and lean side to side, it is just more pronounced with this type of 5th wheel to gooseneck adapter. view full answer...
You should not show power to the brake output wire unless the brake controller is sending it. You may have something wired incorrectly at the 7-Way. You want to make sure your connector is wired the same as the attached photo of a 7-way connector.
If not, then you want to change the wiring and place the wires in the right order. You can also check to see if any of the wires are touching each other inside the 7-Way. Check for corrosion or dirt and clean it up as that can cause shorts... view full answer...
Up until you said you switched relays I was thinking relay the whole time. But if using a good relay in place of a potential bad one didn't solve the problem and the fuses are all good then that could only mean there is a problem with the actual wiring somewhere between the front of the truck and the trailer connector.
Trace the wiring all the way back to front and look for and repair any damage to the wiring.
I assume the truck turn signals work fine but if they don't make sure the flasher... view full answer...
It sounds like your 2001 Ford F350 is not making a good, solid connection to your trailer while your testing the blue wire for current, and that is preventing the blue wire on your Hopkins Agility Electric Brake Controller, part # HM47294, from showing voltage when you apply the brake.
This Hopkins Agility Brake Controller, part # HM47294, will not activate by the brake pedal unless a trailer connection is being made to the truck. However, if there is not a trailer attached to the truck... view full answer...
Can you tell me which brake controller you are using? Have you tested the brake controller? We have an that demonstrates how to test a brake controller that I will provide a link to below. By following the testing procedures outlined in the video, you can determine if the controller is getting power, is receieving input from the brake switch, and is putting out the necessary voltage to actuate the trailer brakes. view full answer...
Since the green light is coming on with no trailer connected that indicates a short that is making the brake controller think that a trailer is connected. The most likely cause of this is a corroded trailer connector.
Make sure the trailer connector is clean and free of corrosion inside, where the wires attach, and outside on the pins. Check the wires and fix any pinched or damaged wires as needed.
I have also included a couple of links on testing and troubleshooting brake controllers... view full answer...
I agree that you most likely have an issue on the truck side. The voltage at the brake magnets when the vehicle is sitting still and the brake pedal is pressed will only read a small amount with the Ford integrated brake controller on your truck. If you are using the manual slide to activate the trailer brakes you should get somewhere between 12 and 13 volts with the controller set to the maximum setting. If this is the case there may be an issue with the brake controller.
The 2005 and... view full answer...
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